Thursday, February 25, 2010

Summary and Write-Up!

Hello all! In the hope of communicating to students well past the hour when I'm going to see any of them - today, at least - I'm making another post here, thinking that those of you who were following the blog will be alerted, and may in turn alert the students you know who came on the trip. To this piece of news:

The school newsletter, which is going to press soon, would like a write-up of our trip to Ecuador!

I think it would be best if this write-up came from students. It would be much more relevant to other potential students that way, and would reflect the students' experience more than my perception of the students' experience. So if any of your students are feeling creative and gushy about our wonderful experience, please let them know that they can tell the world about it through the newsletter!

(Also, I don't want to do it.)

But I do want to say this about our last day in Quito: It was free, open, and very, very productive. I turned the students loose until 2:00, at which time I wanted them to be back at the hotel, in plenty of time to pack and be ready to go by the time our bus was set to depart (3:30). But JUST at the moment when it would be impossible to gather everyone up because of a change of plans, around 10:00 AM, there was a change of plans. The hotel concierge told me that check out time was 12:00, and that his bed-changer only worked until 4:00. If students didn't come back and clear rooms until 2:00, he'd never get enough rooms cleared out in time for new clients!

Ms Getzen and I sprang into action, cartwheeling and backspringing through the crowds to the Plaza Grande, where we found a large contingent of students who were shopping. We asked them to rush back to the hotel and clear their rooms, after which they would be free to do more shopping and exploring. They spread the word to everyone they found on the way, and between that and a few others that we managed to bump into, the management of the hotel were smiling broadly when I next saw them. They had gotten all the rooms cleared and were extremely pleased with us. Which is just how we like to leave 'em.

I took a lot of footage that last day, wandering by myself, doing some shopping for my kids, for a few of their friends, for my wife. Buying my last few churros and glasses of coconut juice (not the same thing as coconut water at all). A group of students took the Trolley to Parque Carolina, a huuuuge public park in the North of Quito, where they played soccer with Guillermo and his friends. They spoke of the morning spent this way in almost reverent terms when they were done - this was transformative for some of them, I think. Using mass transit, with which they were very familiar, to go with Ecuadorian friends from the medieval center of town out to the most modern suburban reaches, to play a game they all love under the Equatorial high-altitude sky. I wished I could have gone with them - just like I wished I could have gone downstairs and gotten in on the card game in Mindo. But these experiences are not about me. I've had my share.

Long goodbyes at the hotel, and then onto the bus. And every single juncture went pretty much perfectly, if slowly - a three-hour wait before we could board our plane in Quito, another of equal length in Bogota, followed by the long and itchy flight home, the long and bothersome trip through customs in the US, the long bus ride home to Lenox...And the longish wait for someone to come let us in the front door of the high school in the sub-freezing wind. But we all survived it, and from what I see and hear at school these past few days, we did so in good spirits and with a lot to think about for a long time to come.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Quito, How we Love Thee

Ah, a restful day. Mostly.

Hannah was up and about and enjoying the day with us all today, which was great to see. Our first scheduled event was at 10:00 AM, when we met to determine who would be staying in the Old Town, be it to rest or to shop or to explore, and who would be accompanying most of the chaperones to the Santa Clara market. Turns out, all but a few wanted to come to the market, so 22 of our 27-member contingent headed out to do some culinary exploration.

We were in the market for an hour and a half, and nearly everybody had lunch there at the little stands and kiosks that offered pork, fried fish, mote, chicharron, morocho...And then there were all the fruits, which people were sampling freely. Everyone showed up at the doors again at the appointed time with a much deeper appreciation for how middle-class Quito gets its victuals, and what those victuals are.

Then we were to head north, to the mall, to see how upper-class Quito lives. But the trolley was so jammed with people that after waiting for twenty minutes, hoping for a less full unit, we gave up and walked to the stop on the other side of the street to head back to the hotel. We tried.

Everyone showed up again at 4:45, so that they could walk to Mass at the San Francisco church, the backbone of the San Francisco monastery. And honestly, I can´t say how it went, because I was off paying for our bus transportation during that hour. But they told me the place was jam-packed, that they had to sit way in the back, and that it was lovely. (Last time, we sat in the back and got scolded for not participating. Of course, the church then was practically empty.)

Thereafter we met up again at La Papita, the restaurant where we´ve befriended Guillermo, the owner. We had a very nice final supper together, and Guillermo made us all a dessert on the house. (He also prepared all the food. And while he did it with a full heart, we did pay him.)

The scuedule for the rest of our stay: The kids are freee to move about in groups of no fewer than three until 10:00, when they check in to the hotel for the night. They each have to find their passport person (the person to whom they turn over their passports when we´re traveling) to make sure we know they´re in. Tomorrow, they´re free to wander and explore and shop (again, in groups) within a defined area, and the first we must see of them is two o´clock, when everyone has to be in the hotel again. Because at 3:30, we head for the airport on the transport I spent part of the afternoon finalizing.

As they said on our mountain hike yesterday, ¨The summit is the bus.¨ Meaning, until we are done with the trip completely, we are not out of the woods, and I am hereby not counting my chickens. But it´s been great so far, and I look forward to another good day tomorrow.

Sweet dreams!

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Over the Mountains and Under the Weather

Big, fun, tiring day of firsts, ending with a whimper. Here´s how it went down:

H.S. was still feeling ill today, so she decided to stay back and not participate in the hike in the mountains. Two other girls (Miranda and Megan) decided not to go because the hiking in Mindo had left them feeling so depleted, and they were uneasy about the idea of altitude and strenuous walking. So Ms Getzen stayed behind to be with them, and the rest of us loaded on the bus around 7:15 and headed out to Pasochoa.

The day was quite clear and sunny when we got to the Pasochoa area, and a lot of students immediately put on sunscreen and broad-brimmed hats. Another, distinct group did not, and some of them actually literally shrugged and said ´Nah´at the suggestion that they might want to. Can´t say they weren´t warned. Weekly. For the last year. ´Strongest sun on Earth´, I would say to them. ´On the equator, over a mile in the air. Only place in the world where that happens.´ That is just what I would say, and just what many of you parents remember me saying. Remember?

A number of students charged up the hill as fast as the foremost guide would allow. There was one guide in front, and one in the back, and two in the middle. They were all young - three women and a man, all of them extremely professional and well-trained. The students seemed, really, remarkably enthusiastic about going, despite the early start.

A few students, though, had trouble from the start. The long and the short of it is that all of them improved dramatically once they started taking the guides´ advice to heart: Breathe in through the nose, out through the mouth; take tiny steps, go slowly. I tried my hand at coaching as well - ´If you´re breathing hard, you´re going too fast. Slow down.´ After a number of starts and stops, we got a good rhythm going and all of those who started out got to the end game of the hike.


Which was a fairly vertical bit of hill, with step-like spots carved out in the grass by the cattle. (We saw some of them, too.) That scramble was a little too much for the rear group, and they went no further. Of the rest, all made it to the lip of the crater, from where we got an unbelievable view. The crater is huge and tree-covered, and three kurikinguis, Ecuadorian eagles, were circling it majesitcally. It was great.

Then came the last dash to the summit, and lunch. The guide charged ahead, followed by the first group of students, and then by me...and there was one spot where my fear of heights took over. I sat down, looking at a very dramatic fall that I couldn´t stop fixating on, and called out to Chris, who was at the top, and whom I could see, that I didn´t think I would make it all the way. I don´t think there was any real danger - I would have had to have jumped a good six feet to either side, hitting nothing, to get to the point where I would have fallen. But as any of you know who have hiked to the top of a mountain thats worth hiking to the top of, there are some pretty hairy vistas much of the time. This was one. And I walked back down to the lip of the crater to tell the ones coming from behind that if they aren´t completely comfortable with heights, which I am not, the stretch to the summit was going to be hard.

One heeded the advice and went no further; the others charged ahead with their guide, and made the summit. I told the student who had stayed at the edge of the crater I would be back, took off my backpack (which made me feel unbalanced), and decided to try again, this time crawling if need be. I didn´t quite crawl, but I did make it, and it was glorious. An incredible view all around. Of the 23 of us who started out, something like 17 made the very top, and all made it to within 100 vertical meters of the top. A great experience.

Back down the mountain, where it started to become clear that some of the students had gotten sunburned. And some of those students - R.Mecz. and Shaun F. - have pretty much gone to bed, having arrived back from the hike extremely tired. As most of us are - but the sunburn may have contributed. We´ll see how they feel in the morning and how their faces look; if they need any attention, we´ll be sure they get it. Others are sunburned, but appear to be much more chipper. People are saying things like ´I never knew I could do anything like that´or ´I pushed through it and I´m so glad I did´. It was a big success. But a few kids are pretty droopy - we´ll keep you posted.

Miranda and Megan, meanwhile, went to the Guayasamin museum and loved it, and then spent the afternoon being shown around the old town by Guillermo Jr., the son of the restaurant owner Guillermo, who has become such a good friend of our students over the last two trips. They may even have made it onto Ecuadorian TV - someone was filming a new spot for a channel that is about to debut on the 24th of this month! Both of them said a line for the camera, once each apart and then together. Big, big fun - Guillermo says he´ll tape it when it airs and put it on Youtube. I will definitely keep you posted.

Nothing scheduled tomorrow until 10:00, though we´ll look in on the kids who aren´t feeling well long before then. And we will either have an unscheduled, ´explore old Quito / rest´day, or a ´Come to the market and the mall´day, depending on how people are feeling. We have a tired bunch on our hands.

And not just the kids.

Thanks for reading!

Birds, Buses, and Bailarinas

Long day, good day, once again. Here are the highlights:

>Up at the crack of dawn (6:00) and onto trucks and vans for a ride to the top of the same hill where we had been ziplining the day before, this time with three birding guides. I contracted them through a little office on the main street in Mindo. All were charismatic and extremely knowledgeable - I overheard one fo the kdis saying that they were so passionate about what they did for a living that it was inspiring. I hav a list of birds that we saw, but not on me at the moment - suffice it to say that there were quite a few. A flycatcher, a tanager, a hawk, a swallowtail kite, two toucans (my group), one the smallest there is and the other, a big yellow-baked one, a hawk...The whole walk was downhill, too, which made it all much easier.

But we hadn´t had breakfast, and I hadn´t thought to tell the kids to go buy food to bring along with them the day before. So we had a bunch of hungry campers on our hands when we got to the botton of the hill around 10:00. We had to wait a while for the bus, and then pay more than I thought we would, but it was no big deal; the bus took us to the Mariposario, the butterfly hatchery, where we spent a pleasant half-hour taking pictures and looking at the butterflies. And then back to Mindo, for lunch and packing.

Our guide had let me use his cell phone to call the head of the transportation company back in Quito and ask if it would be alright for our driver to take us out early. 4:00 had been the scheduled time, but we were eager to get back to Quito. He said sure, and right at 2:00 our driver pulled up in front of the hotel. (He had actually left the bus in Mindo and taken public transportation back to Quito, then come back on another bus to get us.) Another happy development was that the one ATM in Mindo (one more than there was last time), which had had a sign stuck to it over the last 2 days saying ¨There Is No Money¨, was filled when we got back from luhc. Everyone was able to get money, and we left paid up and in good spirits. Everyone piled aboard like clockwork right at 2:00.

I slept on the bus, and I think a lot of others did, too. We´re tired. We came into Quito and to the hotel thanks to some amazing maneuvers by Leonardo, our driver, which elicited spontaneous applause a couple of times. And then we had two hours before heading out to the dance performance, Jacchigua. The kids went to eat, and to buy some snacks to bring along on the hike (learned my lesson there, I did) (AND: A couple of them got film of the vice president driving past in his motorcade!!), and around 6:50 we walked to the Trolley and - somewhat miraculously - climbed immediately aboard one that was all but empty.

We arrived in time for the danc performance, 2/3 of which was spectacular, just like last year. The other 1/3 consisted of two loooong choreographies starring the director, by now in his 70s and pretty much unable to do anything dance-wise but stand there, emoting cadaverously, while female dancers swirl around him, sometimes dressed as nuns. I´ve never heard the phrase ¨Dance of the nuns¨before, I don´t think, and now I know why: It really looks silly. But: The music was in, credible, and the students appreciated that, as a whole. And the costuming in the traditional portions, as well as the choreography, in all the parts that didn´t feature a nearly-immobile, Al Davis-like lead dancer, were great. There was, though, lots of yawning.

We had to wait through five or six trolleys before one came along that ws acceptably empty, and then we came back to the hotel on the last one, and all turned in immediately.

Now I sit here at 6:35, kind of wishing we had tomorrow´s unprogrammed schedule today rather than the other way around. But the kids I´ve seen so far seem chipper enough. It´s going to be a big day, after which there will be a lot of chill time. They have definitely earned it.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Ziplining and Line-Crossing

Soooo sorry about the late post! The day got away from us yesterday - and here´s how:

Up at the crack of 8:30 for breakfast, and by 9:30 we were on our way to do the ziplining. It was a hike of about a mile and a half to two miles, and a few people had some trouble. We´re not at altitude anymore, but the change can still be rough. But we all made it up the long, muddy road (no off-road trails, but the boots were necessary). When we arrived, 22 of the 27 decided to zipline.

The facility is very, very professional. Clean, well-maintained, and drop-dead gorgeous. Ziplining is astonishingly safe-feeling - the cable feels rock steady, if a bit bouncy (contradictory, I know, but true), and you zoom along at ridiculous speeds while the canyon careens beneath you. Still, you have a lot of control - you pull down on this reinforced glove, and by golly, down you slow. The whole group was thrilled with the experience, and plum tuckered by the time we got back to the hotel.

We set the kids free until 6:45, when we were going to take them to a karaoke place we had agreed to rent for an hour. But the carnaval thing, as it happens, becomes much more intense on Fat Tuesday, and a couple of people had somewhat bad experiences with the water-throwing - which had devolved to flour-throwing (it sticks in your hair when it´s wet, you see) and mud-throwing and even, on one particularly bad occasion, grabbing and carrying of people to the water for a soaking. It happened to Natalie, who was furious, and Megan, who took it in stride. Both reactions are completely legitimate. I hadn´t foreseen the escalation of things, and once I heard about that, I looked at the town with a somewhat more jaundiced eye, and agreed with the other chaperones that people in town were getting drunker and drunker, and more and more out of control, so we would not be going out any more that night.

The kids took the news in stride, and weren´t too upset about it - probably because we finally settled in around a looooong table in the hotel´s common area to tally up the points from the scavenger hunt. Once every group´s total was determined, I broke any possible ties (I didn´t know the current totals) by listening as one person from each group told the best story from the day. I awarded points based on this formula: Half the percentage of the story that I think they´ll still be telling in 20 years. There was one about chasing a TV cameraman down the street, another about sweet-talking an Indian woman into letting the kids hold her baby, only to then be asked to become the baby´s godmother, and being mocked and teased mercilessly in front of hundreds of people by street comedians. Once the points were awarded, the totals were tallied and the prizes unveiled. I´ll let the winners (or the non-winners) tell you what they were, but I will give you this hint: They were brilliant.

Off to the pizza joint for a communal dinner (it´s so close by as to be out of range of drunken revelers), and then we settled in to stand guard at the door in case anybody got the wild hare to venture downtown by themselves. ¨Downtown¨- The place has one street.) But nobody did. Even so, by the time I slapped my forehead and said ¨¨Dóh! The blog!!¨, everything was closed. And I mean everything.

Beddy-by, and up this morning for bird watching...but you´ll get that story later on. Our bus leaves in 20 minutes, and we´re squaring away el dinero. Until soon!!!

Monday, February 15, 2010

Mindo - Day 1: Detours, Detours, Detours

Up for breakfast at 7:00 (mostly), breakfast over ith around 8:15, and into the chartered bus and down the road. Our driver made several stops at AtMs to see if the people who have had trouble could get money; many were successful, a few weren´t. But we are sorting it out. And then down the road to Mindo.

there was a detour partway to Mindo, so we went up on a dirt road for a long while before rejoining the highway. (Apparently this keyboard won´t do capital t´s.) the detour was interesting and adventurous, and we came out of it fine. So all is well.

Rolled into Mindo around 11:15, and turned the kids loose until 3:00. they found lunch and had adventures that I´m sure they´ll tell you about - Ms sears (capital s´s are out too, apparently) said that she kept hearing from students as she bumped into them around town, ´I´m so happy!´the town is jumping with people, almost all of them vacationers from Quito. Veeeery few gringos.

At three oclock we all marched to a hostel that has hummingbird feeders, and then we turned them loose again until 8:00. they were having so much fun exploring the town that we didn´t want to try to sneak in any organized activities. good thing, too, because the kids organied pick-up soccer and had any number of adventures - including catching on to the fact that restauranteurs will take as long as they possibly can to give the check to a group of pretty young Americans who are attracting business to the restaurant. (Kudos to Maddie A for catching on to that.) At 8:00, we met up in order to do the points for the scavenger hunt, but a group of girls came down with Marco, their new friend, a twelve-year-old boy who was staying at the hotel and was giving them a hard time about their spanish. his sister (no h, either) had a pet hampster that rode around in her pocket, and we all cooed and awwed over them. turns out, their parents and grandmother, and sister, were sitting behind us in the cafeteria, and before you knew it, they were playing cuarenta with Ryan c, Shaun F and ryan M, and were very impressed with their prowess. the howls of laughter coming from that room had me grinning ear to ear, and i just didnt have the heart to break them up so we could tally points. tomorrow is another day. As often happens when learning is taking place, the teachers all stepped slowly away and just let things happen. it has been tremendous.

the kids are now strolling the street in Mindo, having a blast, as the streets are still filled with revelers, and even a long train-thing that rides up and down the street hauling children (including Marco, who mercilessly nailed our guys with foam spray as he rode past), glowing green with fluorescent lights.

the meals are amazing here. lots of ecuadorian cuisine - and a strolling musician who seemed to make it to every one of the kids´restaurants. he played a guitar, a cowbell, and a pan flute all at the same time, and this guy could sing. he was really, really good - as was the food, the company, the weather (softly rainy - just enough to be interesting and fun, and warm), the welcome...It´s been a great day.

tomorrow we do the ziplining, and the next day, bird watching and hiking before heading back to Quito. glory be!

On we go for another day. It´s been a fantastic ride so far.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Happy Hunting

Wow! Long day, but great day, top to bottom. The top:

Breakfast at 8:00, on the road at 9:00 or so to the Trole (trolley), which we rode like pros. The kids got a big kick out of it - it´s fast, efficient, and filled with the sort of people that fill up every city: hipsters, grandmothers, businessmen, students, people in love. But all Ecuadorian, being those things in the particuar way Ecuadorians are. It was great.

Piled off the Trole and were met immediately in the old city with drums, drums drums! School bands were marching, parading in their uniforms, on the Plaza Grande; people were teeming, dancing in clown outfits as part of the Carnaval spectacle...Just wonderful. We had to go to our second hotel so we could leave our passports in their safe (the hotel we are in has none, turns out), but then we were turned loose in groups of nine (two adults, seven students) for the scavenger hunt.

Which the kids had a lot of fun with. The adventures included rooftop lunches (three-course meal and drink for $1.80), being included in street comedy, being sprayed with squirted foam from spray bottles that are sold during carnaval for the purpose...Lots and lots of fun. Some of you got phone calls during this part of the day - they were required. You have me to thank. Although I only managed to leeave a message at my own home, so I didnt get any messages you might have left for me, and wont until tomorrow. Sorry about that - though if there were a problem, I would think I would have gotten an email. And I didn´t.

Back to the hotel for a bit of rest, then out again for supper, where we ate at a fantastic Colombian place for about $7 each. They made us wait an hour - maybe more - for the food, which had me steaming, but honest to goodness, the food made up for it. Eliza had soup with brain in it, and didn´t eat the brain, but valiantly ate the soup around it. I was very proud of her. And it was delicious, as she´ll be the first to tell you. So was the brain!, as Frannie will be the first to tell you - and Sarah, the second! By the time the meal was over I had forgotten everything bad I had thought about them for making us wait. In fact, I wanted to hug them.

Back to the hotel where we were too tired to tally up the points form the scavenger hunt. The kids were off to bed (with some socializing thrown in beforehand, doubtless), and I came here to do this. Well, I came here to look for a phone to call my wife, but everyplace is closed - and the one that isn´t, the international calls aren´t working. Drat. Sorry, sweetie - I was trying.

Tomorrow at 8:00 on the dot we´re off to Mindo! On our own chartered bus! Once again, I feel so IMPORTANT!

And tired. And dirty. Off to find a taxi back to the hotel - Hasta mañana!